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NEWS ★【新課程快訊】POLIMODA義大利服裝設計暨時尚管理學院與康泰納仕時尚設計培訓中心共同開設課程

義大利佛羅倫斯男裝展Pitti Immagine

POLIMODA義大利服裝設計暨時尚管理學院每年必將義大利佛羅倫斯男裝展Pitti Immagine規劃在課程之一喔 !

對時裝設計有興趣的同學們,快來看看國際時尚編輯Suzy Menkes蘇西曼奇斯這次在義大利佛羅倫斯男裝展Pitti Immagine的相關報導吧 !

Suzy Menkes reports from the Pitti Immagine exhibition  佛羅倫斯男裝展Pitti Immagine

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A modern face pasted to an oil painting at the exhibition by Francesco Vezzoli.  CREDIT:  Project Studio

在Francesco Vezzoli的展覽中,一張現代的臉印製於油畫上。

”ART AND FASHION” 「藝術與時尚」

Melding art and fashion is one of the specialities of Florence. The first example of what became a trend for an entire generation was the fashion biennale in 1996. I will never forget the chase around Florence from Prada’s goats nibbling dry grass to Jean Paul Gaultier’s display among skulls in a medical museum to Yves Saint Laurent’s display in the Uffizi gallery.

藝術與時尚的融合一直是佛羅倫斯最擅長的強項。引領這趨勢、影響整個世代的最早一批作品,就是1996年的時尚雙年展時首度呈現。從Prada的羊群吃著乾草、Jean Paul Gaultier在醫學博物館中的骷顱頭中的展示,還有Yves Saint Laurent在Uffizi藝廊中的展覽,這些當時在佛羅倫斯引起的盛況,至今都令我難以忘懷。

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Project Studio

The contribution this season of artist Francesco Vezzoli’s was striking, because he mounted his pastiche paintings on the walls of private palazzos tuned into museum-homes.

This infiltration creates a dialogue with art works: not least a portrait of the artist himself translated as a historic painting; or images of his mother with a line of sparkling jewels spilling out of her mouth.

這一季,藝術家弗朗西斯科维佐里Francesco Vezzoli作品的貢獻相當引人注目,他將他作品的複製品印製於曾為私人宮殿的博物館的牆面。

這樣的跨界組合創造出與藝術作品的對談:其中包括藝術家將自己化身為歷史性的畫作,還有他的母親的影像中,許多閃亮的寶石從母親的口中落出。

Striking pieces included a self portrait of a biblical figure chained to a pillar with an ancient sculpture just below his feet.

其他相當引起矚目的作品包括將聖經中的人物用鐵鍊綁在柱子上,腳下是一座古老的雕塑品。

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Project Studio

The ultimate sacrilege? The head of performance artist Marina Abramović pasted on to an oil painting.

褻瀆神明?表演藝術家瑪莉娜‧阿布拉莫維奇Marina Abramović頭部的圖像印製於一幅油畫上。

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Project Studio

”FAMOUS FASHION FLORENTINES” 「知名的時尚界佛羅倫斯人」

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Roberto Cavalli space at Florence and Fashion exhibition with images by Steven Meisel, Craig McDean and Paolo Roversi. CREDIT:  Proj3ct Studio

在佛羅倫斯與時尚展覽中的Robert Cavalli攤位。影像提供:Project Studio

Gucci and Pucci, Ferragamo and Scervino – all brands, and their founders, born in Florence. Add  Roberto Cavalli, whose grandfather Giuseppe Rossi was an artist whose work is hung in the city’s Uffizzi Gallery.

Gucci與Pucci、Ferragamo與Scervino – 品牌與創辦人都是來自佛羅倫斯。除此之外,Robert Cavalli的祖父吉烏賽佩‧羅西Guiseppe Rossi是一位在佛羅倫斯工作的藝術家,他的作品至今仍在市中心的Uffizzi藝廊展示。

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The Gucci space at Florence and Fashion exhibition with images by Paolo Roversi and Mario Sorenti,  CREDIT:  Proj3ct Studio

在佛羅倫斯與時尚展覽中的Gucci攤位。影像提供:Project Studio

Vogue Italia celebrated ‘Firenze Hometown of Fashion’ with an exhibition of iconic images by leading photographers. Entitled ‘Florence and Fashion’, the show was designed to show the intrinsic Italian style in a global world.

為慶祝「時尚之都佛羅倫斯Firenze Hometown of Fashion」展覽,義大利版Vogue雜誌規劃一場特展,展出多位重量級攝影師的經典影像。這場攝影展以「佛羅倫斯與時尚Florence and Fashion」為主題,希望突顯出義大利風格在全球中扮演的重要角色。

”WHO IS ON NEXT” 「明日之星WHO IS ON NEXT」

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Alberto Premi from Brescia in Lombardy.  CREDIT: Suzy Menkes

來自義大利北部倫巴蒂Lombardy布雷夏Brescia的Alberto Premi。攝影:蘇西曼奇斯

Move over Chanel! More than a match – on the tennis court or football ground – for haute couture sneakers are the colourful bespoke sport shoes  from Alberto Premi from Brescia in Lombardy.

香奈兒Chanel閃邊去!無論是網球場或足球場,或是頂級訂製運動鞋,來自義大利北部倫巴蒂Lombardy的布雷夏Brescia的Alberto Premi銷售的是色彩鮮艷的訂製運動鞋。

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Tom Lipop, English born co/winner of Who is On Next showing off inventive fabrics in tailoring with a twist. CREDIT: Suzy Menkes

出生於英國、同時也是明日之星Who is On Next獎項的共同得獎主Tom Lipop展示充滿變化的創意布料。影像提供:蘇西曼奇斯

Joint winner of the Who is On Next award at the Pitti Imagine menswear fair, the shoes are in inventive shapes. Alberto Premi carves out the material to make the result super light. He is offering the shoes on line or in exclusive stores. An energetic new take on sporty luxury – with bold colours to match the shapes

榮獲Pitti Imagine男裝展明日之星獎Who is On Next的共同得獎人,並以充滿想像力的形狀設計鞋款的設計師Alberto Premi將素材挖空,呈現出超輕迎的鞋款。他的產品可透過網路或專賣店選購。以充滿能量的方式詮釋運動風的精品,並以大膽的色選來呼應這些特殊的造型。

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Light as a feather!  Brunello Cucinelli shows off a super-light cashmere jacket in a Lora Piana fabric at his exhibition stand. CREDIT:  Suzy Menkes

如羽毛般輕盈!Brunello Cucinelli在他的展示攤上展示一款用Lora Piano布料製成、極為輕盈的喀什米爾外套。

影像提供:蘇西曼奇斯

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Caruso presents  a video installation by Sergio Colantuoni showing how much a customer should expect to pay after all the processes involved in a tailored jacket.  Minimalist meets classic.  CREDIT: Suzy Menkes

Caruso以Servio Colantuoni創作的影片裝飾藝術作品,向顧客說明訂製西服的製程,以及在這精緻的過程完成之後,顧客這一端可能需要支付的售價。低限主義與經典在此相會。

影像提供:蘇西曼奇斯。

(文章出處:Vogue Taiwan)

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