一起來看看國際時尚編輯Suzy Menkes蘇西曼奇斯對於羅馬工匠與古董宮廷套鞋的相關報導吧 !

羅馬工匠的一場徹底60年代風格的實驗

A Roman artisan’s thoroughly modern Sixties experiments

polimoda (2)Albanese的古董宮廷套鞋

宮廷鞋該如何在金屬環上平衡,而不是立足於鞋跟上?或是放在一個玻璃球上,然後切成一半,再放一個朝上的三角形,呈現完美的平衡狀態?

正當你以為這雙鞋子不可能再激發出什麼新的點子時,有一款搭配魚頭的芭蕾舞鞋,鞋面是佈滿鱗片的皮革,整體則是堆疊於另一個玻璃球上,好像魚的眼睛。

A vintage mule by Albanese

How can a court shoe balance on a metal ring, instead of a heel? Or rest its height and strength on a glass bauble, sliced in half with an upturned triangle completing the balancing act?

Just when you thought that nothing new could be done with a shoe, there was a ballerina with a fishhead, a scaly leather upper part – the whole resting on another glass bauble like a fish eye.

polimoda (3)Albanese 經典鞋款影像旁的「魚」鞋

對我來說,Armando Albanese設計的這些鞋款最厲害的地方,就是這些是60年代和70年代製作的鞋款,是在美好年代時期穿上羅馬的紅毯盛會的款式,知名藝人碧姬‧巴鐸、克勞蒂亞‧卡汀娜、蘇菲亞羅蘭、艾娃嘉娜都曾穿過他設計的鞋子。

如果我有錢,我會下賭注,看好這個將經典製鞋的工藝,重新詮釋原創的點子,設計出看起來充滿歡樂、幽默、又實穿的鞋子。

The “fish” shoe beside an Albanese archive image

To me, the most amazing thing about the shoes designed by Armando Albanese is that they were made in the Sixties and Seventies, to walk Roman red carpets in the Dolce Vita years. Brigitte Bardot, Claudia Cardinale, Sophia Loren and Ava Gardner all wore his shoes.

If I had the money, I would bet on the classic shoemakers re-working their original ideas to create footwear that looks joyous, witty and – heaven be praised – wearable.

polimoda (4)圖片出處:Ariel Gabriel La Rosa, Desiree Bazzo, Luca Sorrentino

CAPTION: Albanese 古董鞋

我是在哪裡找到這些的?在羅馬時尚周Altaroma的手工藝術智慧展(Artisanal Intelligence)。策展者Clara Tosi Pamphili和Alessio de Navasques選擇運用古董鞋品牌Albanese 做為媒介,以「義大利製造」的歷史結合過去與當下,創造未來。

展覽位於即將正式在九月開幕、全新當代藝術藝廊Giacomo Guidi,是一個相當摩登的空間,位於Trastevere地區,在臺伯河邊,旁邊還有美麗的植物園。

CREDIT: Ariel Gabriel La Rosa, Desiree Bazzo, Luca Sorrentino

CAPTION: Albanese vintage shoes

Where did I find them? At the Artisanal Intelligence exhibition at Altaroma. Its curators, Clara Tosi Pamphili and Alessio de Navasques, chose to include vintage shoe brand Albanese as a means of creating a future from the “Made in Italy” history, bridging the past and present.

It was staged in the new modern-art gallery of Giacomo Guidi, which will officially open in September, a contemporary space in the Trastevere area framed by the Tiber and the botanical gardens.

polimoda (5)圖片出處:Ariel Gabriel La Rosa, Desiree Bazzo, Luca Sorrentino

圖說:Albanese古董鞋

如果我有錢–第二階段:我會贊助一個全年運作的網站,讓已經建立知名度的藝術家和年輕設計師面對面。當應用藝術從電影中得到啟發,透過藝術家的巧手,就會產生出超級有創意的能量。

還有美好的鞋履。

CREDIT: Ariel Gabriel La Rosa, Desiree Bazzo, Luca Sorrentino

CAPTION: Albanese vintage shoe

If I had the money – part two: I would sponsor a year-round dedicated site to face off established artists and young designers. When the applied arts are inspired by film and touched by artistic hands, you get a powerful creative energy.

And great shoes.

polimoda (1)圖片出處:Ariel Gabriel La Rosa, Desiree Bazzo, Luca Sorrentino

圖說:Albanese古董鞋

CREDIT: Ariel Gabriel La Rosa, Desiree Bazzo, Luca Sorrentino

CAPTION: Albanese vintage shoes

Instagram @SuzyMenkesVogue

Twitter @SuzyMenkesVogue

Facebook.com/SuzyMenkes

當然,對鞋子設計有興趣的同學們,也可參考POLIMODA義大利服裝設計暨時尚管理學院的鞋子設計課程

(文章出處:Vogue Taiwan)

POLIDESIGN多設計留遊學顧問中心- POLIMODA義大利服裝設計暨時尚管理學院台灣辦事處
官網 : www.polidesign.com.tw
電話:02-2581-3255
傳真:02-2537-4409
手機:0978-081-355
email : info@polidesign.com.tw
skype : polidesign.taiwan
FB專頁: www.facebook.com/POLIDESIGNCONSULTANCY