POLIMODA義大利服裝設計暨時尚管理學院院長Linda Loppa的得意門生Martin Margiela其同名品牌Maison Martin Margiela,自2009年設計師Martin Margiela離職之後,不僅未再踏入時尚界,且他留下來的品牌,就一直處在沒有設計總監帶領的狀態下生存,每季都由設計團隊共同完成,至今一直表現平平。而今,前Dior設計總監John Galliano確定回歸,成為Maison Martin Margiela新任創意設計總監,將於明年一月巴黎高級訂製服週推出他的第一季作品。

而POLIMODA義大利服裝設計暨時尚管理學院院長Linda Loppa也對於這次John Galliano成為Maison Martin Margiela新任創意設計總監一事,發表了她的時尚見解,大家趕緊來看看吧 !


原文 :

The decision of Renzo Rossi, CEO of Diesel, to nominate Mr Galliano as designer for the haute couture collections of Maison Martin Margiela drew attention to the brand again and therefore is in itself a success. Commenting on this fact is irrelevant; discussions about whether Mr Galliano deserves a second chance or not is not my main preoccupation and concern. The protagonists of the brand have disappeared, exhausted by trying to keep their integrity. The discussion is therefore based on how the fashion system should evolve and why Renzo Rossi was not able to find a younger designer – fresh, contemporary with a less dramatic aura around him, than John Galliano.

The aim of this appointment is linked too much to the visibility that Maison Martin Margiela needs at the moment because its collections today are bad imitations of the basic and iconic elements of the house; the fabrics and ideas are poor replicas of what they once were and it seems nobody can tap into the essence of the style and tailoring Martin so brilliantly conceived. I would like to examine the meaning of the term ‘Haute Couture’ and find out if tailoring is still the main goal of this sphere, where more young designers are coming on the scene but do not always respect the high standards of luxury, beauty and elegance that ‘Haute Couture’ should embody. It should be a laboratory of ideas for designers where they could have time to study new techniques, patterns and body shapes and fabrics that reflect the new technologies and show the way to the future of the fashion system. ‘Haute Couture’ should become a laboratory, an institute that is accessible to designers, artists, researchers, architects, scientists and curators where they can experiment and design a new world, discuss and debate with buyers, retailors, consumers to re-design a sector that is losing itself in an increasingly frenetic rhythm where the collections are not very interesting, and exhaust all the people involved.

It becomes embarrassing to see what a low ebb creativity is at today despite so many fashion schools and programs delivering highly educated designers capable of turning the fashion system into a more interesting field; some companies are concerned by the disappearance of the generation of craftsmen and women; they should study the phenomenon of the dying dream of the Fashion Designer, the individual who is the creative brain behind a name. This is what I think following today’s nomination and John Galliano’s come-back as a designer for a label and name that changed the history of Fashion – not with a theatrical approach – but with a concept that was humble, honest, emotionally strong but most of all intellectually rich in thought and reflection.

Linda Loppa

文/Linda Loppa※原文刊載於POLIMODA官網

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