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NEWS ★【新課程快訊】POLIMODA義大利服裝設計暨時尚管理學院與GUCCI共同開設時尚零售管理碩士課程

The Beat of Africa Resounds From The Catwalk 羅馬時裝周的非洲律動

色彩明快的印花,剪裁得體的輪廓,歡快的飾物點綴在健美的身型上——“非洲律動”在羅馬時裝周的T臺上迴響縈繞。一起來看看國際時尚編輯Suzy Menkes蘇西曼奇斯的相關報導吧 !

Suzy Menkes在新晉設計師的新平臺羅馬時裝周現場報導

Suzy Menkes reports from Altaroma, a new launch pad for emerging designers

polimoda (1)Lisa Folawiyo(左)和Stella Jean(右)的造型

自從義大利與海地混血設計師Stella Jean贏得2011年度“下一個是誰”(Who Is on Next)設計大獎,並因此被Giorgio Armani選中在他的米蘭工作室辦秀後,她就成為了非洲時裝界的標杆。

她的Stella Jean系列是熱情洋溢與理性含蓄相融合的典範。看到她那修身得體的男/女裝上栩栩如生的圖案和格紋時,我頓時心醉神迷。

一條高腰修身長褲可以用來搭配薄外套,或許是後背帶有大幅綠葉圖案的那種。

Jubilant prints in controlled silhouettes, joyous embellishment to sporty shapes – the Beat of Africa resounded from the catwalk at this week’s Altaroma event.

Ever since half-Italian, half-Haitian designer Stella Jean won the Who Is on Next award in 2011 – and was subsequently chosen by Giorgio Armani to show in his Milan premises – she had become a torch-bearer for Africa in fashion.

Her Stella Jean collection was a model of exuberance and restraint. My heart lifted on seeing her vivid patterns and graphic checks, controlled by slimline outfits – for both sexes.

A pair of slender trousers, the waist rising high, would be teamed with a light coat – perhaps with a pattern of green leaves exploding at the back.

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Stella Jean設計作品

Stella Jean採用布吉納法索的布料,並積極探索肯亞、馬利、海地等地的可用素材,成為將現代義大利風格帶入該品牌服飾的推動者。

“多樣性即豐富性,”Stella Jean說,她很期待將非洲印花和裝飾推介到亞洲。

“非洲律動”是由國際貿易中心“道德時裝組織”與羅馬時裝周共同發起的活動。國際貿易中心是聯合國與世貿組織共同設立的機構。

It is to Stella Jean’s credit that she has taken her line forward in modern Italian style, while using the fabrics of Burkina Faso and exploring Kenya, Maili and Haiti.

“Diversity is richness,” said Stella Jean, expressing her excitement in introducing African prints and embellishment to Asia.

Beat of Africa is brought by the International Trade Centre’s Ethical Fashion Initiative in collaboration with Altaroma. The International Trade Centre is a joint agency of the United Nations and World Trade Organisation.

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Lisa Folawiyo設計作品

來自奈及利亞的Lisa Folawiyo是今年的特邀嘉賓,她舉辦了一場在圖案、色彩和材質上極具視覺衝擊力的秀:一件草綠色的樹葉圖案女士襯衣,外搭一條松綠色-粉色圍胸和粉色格子裙。(在這身精緻優雅的行頭上再加一隻色彩鮮豔的包包。)那就像是從非洲走來,卻適合全世界人民穿著的服裝。

一手創立起Lagos時裝設計周的創意與管理領袖Omoyemi Akerele強調了在羅馬為非洲設計師搭建展示平台的重要性。

Lisa Folawiyo from Nigeria was this year’s special guest, and she opened the show with a powerful mix of pattern, colour and texture: a grass-green foliage-patterned blouse, morphing into a turquoise and pink pinafore and pink plaid skirt. (Add a colourful clutch bag to this sophisticated fashion recipe.) I felt that these were clothes out of Africa – but for the world to wear.

Omoyemi Akerele, the creative and managerial force behind Lagos Fashion and Design Week, underscored the importance of having a platform in Rome for African designers.

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Duaba Serwa by Nelly Aboagye

Duaba Serwa by Nelly Aboagye和Mina Evans-Anfom也展示了他們集絢爛色彩、印花與含蓄得體的剪裁為一身的優雅系列。

Duaba Serwa by Nelly Aboagye and Mina Evans-Anfom also showed fine collections with a smart mix of exuberant colours and prints and restrained shapes.

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Mina Evans-Anfom

“非洲律動”的主要策劃人Simone Cipriani獲得了熱烈的掌聲,但他更願意放眼未來的發展。

他談到在迦納建立設計師服裝生產工廠的事項,並強調了為非洲有天賦的設計師尋找資助者和展示平台的重要性。

“放眼2015年,我們必須提高對網路行銷的重視,”Cipriani說。“我們已有很多實體合作者,現在要轉戰網路市場了。”

Simone Cipriani, the master force behind the Beat of Africa project received wild applause – but chose to concentrate on the future.

He talked about having set up a manufacturing plant in Ghana, dedicated to designers’ work, and the importance of finding both patrons and platforms for African talent.

“And now, for 2015, we have to take on the issue of the internet,” said Cipriani. “We now have a lot of brick-and-mortar partners. Now we have to sell online.”

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羅馬時裝周“非洲律動”秀結束後,Suzy與Simone Cipriani和國際貿易中心“道德時裝組織”成員合影。

Suzy with Simone Cipriani (kneeling) and the ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative team after the Beat of Africa show at Altaroma

對服裝設計有興趣的同學們,也可以參考POLIMODA義大利服裝設計暨時尚管理學院 Fashion Design 服裝設計課程喔 !

(文章出處:Vogue Taiwan)

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